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Stinging Insects
 Sooner or
later many of us will have the unpleasant experience of being stung by a bee or
wasp. Most insect stings occur during late summer and fall when stinging insects
are most abundant. Generally, these insects will not sting unless stepped on,
touched or annoyed.
Most stinging wasps and bees are beneficial and should be
preserved unless they pose a direct hazard to humans. Some, including the honey
bee, are important pollinators essential for the propagation of plants,
including many agriculturally important crops. Honey bees also produce honey and
beeswax.
Most wasps and hornets are efficient predators and help
regulate destructive insect populations which might otherwise adversely affect
our health, homes, livestock or crops.
In spite of their many benefits, it may become necessary to
control stinging insects if they pose a hazard. Insect stings probably injure
more people each year than all other venomous animals combined. Fortunately,
recovery from most stings is rapid and occurs within a couple of days. Only the
females are capable of stinging because the stinger is actually a modified
ovipositor or egg-laying tube. Originally, the stinger served to deposit eggs in
protected areas or into the bodies of insect prey. Later, venom glands evolved
and the stinger began to be used as a weapon to paralyze prey and defend the
nest.
Insect stings normally are characterized by moderate to severe
pain, localized reddening and swelling, and occasionally even mild headache and
fever. Treatment involves disinfecting the wounded area with soap and water.
Meat tenderizer, which contains an enzyme that breaks down the venom, and/or a
baking soda paste also may be applied to the sting site to help relieve pain.
Several over-the-counter sting remedies are available at pharmacies.
In allergic individuals, insect stings can cause a
life-threatening systemic reaction which rapidly can lead to anaphylactic shock.
Symptoms in these individuals usually appear within minutes after the sting.
Localized swelling can be extensive, with a hives-like condition occurring over
the body. There also may be a choking sensation, accompanied by difficulty
breathing and blueness in the lips and extremities. This may be followed by
nausea, vomiting and loss of consciousness.
Should any of these symptoms appear following an insect sting,
a physician should be consulted immediately.
Since there is no way to completely avoid stinging insects,
individuals allergic to stings should consider a desensitization program and
carry emergency medication.
In general, successful management of stinging insects involves
one or more of the following strategies:
Avoid Attracting Wasps and Bees
Many wasp and bee species are scavengers and will forage for a
wide variety of foods including fruits, ice cream, soda pop, jelly, sweet salads
and meat products. In areas where these insects are active, do not leave food in
open containers. Placing food scraps in sealed trash receptacles also will help
discourage scavenging activities. Persons with home orchards are encouraged to
remove fallen fruits, since they are highly attractive to many stinging insect
species.
Where wasps and bees are abundant, avoid wearing
brightly-colored clothing or highly-scented cosmetic products.
Locating Nesting Sites
When stinging insects are observed around buildings, lawns,
shrubs or gardens, do not panic; it is likely that they simply are searching for
food. However, it also may be possible that there are one or more nests in the
vicinity.
If insect activities are persistent, attempt to locate their
nests during the day. An understanding of the nesting behavior of the species
involved (described later in the biology section) will be helpful in this
process. Mark the location and wait for nightfall.
Proper Timing of Control
The best time to control stinging insects is after dark when
foraging adults have returned to their nests. Late evening or early morning
treatments are preferred since these insects generally are less active at cooler
temperatures. It generally is not advisable to attempt control of stinging
insects during the daytime because adults are active and may attack in defense
of the nest.
Using Protective Equipment
When preparing to treat for stinging insects always wear a
long-sleeved shirt, long pants tied or taped at the ankles, socks and shoes. A
hat covered with netting to protect the face, and gloves to protect the hands
and wrists, also are recommended. If a flashlight is used, cover the lens with
red cellophane wrap. Insects do not see well in red light and will not be
attracted to your light.
Handling of Intruders in Homes and Automobiles
Occasionally, wasps and bees enter homes through open doors and
windows. These insects are looking for a way out and often will settle by
windows or glass doors. While resting they easily can be eliminated with a fly
swatter.
Do not panic if a wasp or bee should enter your automobile
while you are driving. The best approach is to~
stay calm and leave the insect alone! Never attempt to kill
the intruder while the automobile is moving. When it is safe, stop the
automobile and take care of your uninvited guest.
Wasps and bees can be classified as solitary or social, depending
on whether they live alone or in colonies. Solitary species such as cicada
killers, carpenter bees, digger wasps and mud daubers use their stingers to
subdue the insects and spiders upon which they prey. These insects normally are
quite docile and rarely attack people. Social bees and wasps such as
yellowjackets, paper wasps and honeybees use their stingers and venom as
defensive weapons. When forced to defend themselves or their nests, they often
will attack the intruder in large numbers.
Hornets
These stinging insects belong to the Vespidae family. Common
yellowjackets are sometimes called hornets. However, true hornets can be
identified by their black bodies and white markings on the thorax and abdomen --
thus, the name "white-faced hornet." Their nests can be 38 inches
(96.5 cm) in circumference and 20 inches (51 cm) in length. They can be found in
hedges, trees, or under the eaves of buildings. The major difference between
hornet nests and the yellowjacket's is that a hornet's has an artistic flare on
the upper half. The yellowjacket's is smaller --usually about 30 inches (76 cm)
around and 14 inches (35 cm) long. They're also found in the same areas as
hornet nests, but about 60 per cent are a few inches underground. Deserted
rodent holes are favourites. In addition, nests have been found in bird houses,
boats, and garbage cans.
Yellowjackets
Yellowjackets feed on insects, spiders and a wide variety of
other food items. They are medium-sized, stout-bodied, and black with bright
yellow bands. Yellow-jackets construct globular paper nests, usually in
underground cavities. Favorite nesting times include rodent burrows, compost
piles and wall voids.
Occasionally these wasps build aerial nests in garages, crawl
spaces or other enclosed areas. Nests are built of paper made by stripping wood
fibers from trees, fences, garden stakes and other wooden structures. The combs
are built in tiers and are surrounded by an outer paper covering.
1. Yellowjackets
When yellowjackets are disturbed, give them plenty of room
since they are capable of inflicting painful, multiple stings. If yellowjackets
become excited and appear about to attack, do not panic. Make no sudden
movements and retreat slowly and calmly from the area.
Yellowjackets are scavengers and frequently are found foraging
around compost piles and garbage receptacles. Their activity can be discouraged
in the vicinity of patios, parks, picnic and other recreational areas by
covering all food and disposing of waste in covered containers.
Turning compost piles regularly and placing
insecticide-impregnated resin strips in the lids of garbage cans and dumpsters
will help reduce the numbers of yellow-jackets in these areas. Yellowjackets are
highly attracted to overripe fruit. Prompt removal of fallen fruit should help
reduce the attractiveness.
Control strategies for yellowjacket colonies depend on the
location of the nests.
a) Aerial nests: From a safe distance and after dark,
treat the nest with liquid or aerosol jet spray insecticide.
Remove the nest a day or two after treatment.
b) Ground nests: Treat the nest with dust or liquid
insecticide formulations after dark. Approach the nest very
carefully, since a number of yellowjackets typically will be guarding its
entrance. Apply the insecticide, then quickly seal the nest opening with a
shovel full of dirt, a sheet of plywood or a flat rock. Insecticide dust
formulations generally are preferred because workers attempting to use the nest
opening will track dust and contaminate brood and other colony members.
Retreatment may be necessary after a few days if yellowjacket activity
continues.
c) Nests within cavities: Yellowjackets occasionally
build their nests in wall voids, cracks in stone walls or other cavities
associated with buildings. In such cases, do not seal the entrance hole
following the insecticide treatment because yellowjackets attempting to leave
the nest may enter the building through inside openings. Insecticide dust
formulations are preferred since the workers entering or
leaving the nest will tend to be contaminated.
Paper or Umbrella Wasps
Paper wasps are about 1" in length, have a spindle-shaped
body and are marked with a brown and yellow pattern. Paper wasps construct
umbrella-shaped, single-layered nests with exposed cells. Nests may be built in
trees and shrubs but frequently are found under building overhangs, in attics,
barns, garages and sheds.
2. Paper wasp
Nests are initiated in the spring by a single overwintered
queen called the foundress. Other fertile females often join the colony later in
the season. Colonies may produce up to 200 individuals by summer's end. These
wasps are not considered overly aggressive and usually pose a threat only when
their nests are disturbed. However, foraging wasps can cause considerable
annoyance as they fly in and about entrances of buildings.
The best approach for controlling paper wasps involves
treating nests with liquid or aerosol jet insecticide sprays after dark.
Knocking down a nest without an insecticide treatment usually is ineffective
since these wasps will rebuild the nest in a short time.
Honey Bees
Honey bees may become troublesome when they swarm or build
colonies in or near residential areas Honeybees occasionally invade homes and
establish a colony, building combs of wax containing honey, pollen and brood in
wall spaces.
Once established, a colony is difficult to remove because it
usually involves structural modification of the building. To be effective, the
honey and wax should be removed along with the bees or the site will remain
attractive to other swarms.
2. Honey bee
In addition, ants, carpet beetles, flies and cockroaches may
find their way to the comb to feed and reproduce.
Several methods may be used to control honey bees once they
are established in a building, but prevention is the best way to avoid the
problem. Good maintenance, including painting, repairing or replacing rotted
boards or broken brick and caulking, can prevent a colony from getting started.
If a colony becomes established, call a local beekeeper who
may be interested in removing the colony. Names of beekeepers can be obtained
through your NC Dept of Agriculture local
Extension Office.
If the bees must be destroyed, apply an insecticide dust or
spray in the evening when bees have returned to the colony and temperatures are
cooler. Pyrethrins are particularly effective because they provide rapid
knockdown.
In many cases, it is difficult to contact combs directly with
the insecticide, since they often are some distance from the actual point of
entry into the building. It probably is best to hire an experienced beekeeper or
pest control operator to do the job. Bill's Exterminating Co., Inc. can
provide the services you need.
CAUTION: You should never use honey or wax from honey
bee colonies that have been treated with an insecticide. Also, never attempt to
kill bees in buildings with liquid petroleum, gasoline, or any other flammable
material. The entire structure may be destroyed along with the bees!
Bumble Bees
4. Bumble bee
These bees most commonly become a problem when they establish
nests close to a sidewalk or near building foundations. Bumble bees are large,
robust bees covered with dense black and yellow hairs. They commonly reach one
inch in length. Bumble bees usually are not overly aggressive, but will sting if
molested.
To avoid confrontations with bumble bees, stay clear of
patches of flowers visited by adults. These bees can be controlled by spraying
or dusting insecticides into their nests. Retreatment may be necessary.
Cicada Killers
This is the largest wasp species in North Carolina. They are up
to two inches long and are boldly marked with yellow stripes on a black body.
Cicada killers are most abundant during midsummer when their prey, the cicada,
is active.
5. Cicada killer
Cicada killers attack, sting and carry paralyzed cicadas back
to underground burrows. These burrows can be found near walks, driveways and
retaining walls and usually can be identified by the presence of fresh soil
around the 1/2-inch entrance hole. Once the paralyzed cicada has been dragged
underground, the wasp deposits an egg on it. Upon hatching, the wasp larva uses
the cicada as a source of food.
These wasps normally are very docile and are unlikely to sting
unless provoked. However, if nesting activities become a problem, infested areas
can be treated with an insecticide.
Mud Daubers
Mud Daubers are medium-size (1-1.5 inches) wasps with the front
portion of the abdomen long and highly constricted, giving them a "thread-waisted"
appearance. In North Carolina these wasps range in color from metallic blue to
black. They feed almost exclusively on spiders. These wasps do not defend their
nests and are not likely to attack people.
Mud dauber nests are constructed of mud or clay and often are
found attached to the walls or under the eves of buildings. When emergence holes
are present in nests, the wasps have completed their life cycle and no longer
are present. These nests should simply be removed and discarded.
Nests without holes can be removed and crushed or treated with
an insecticide. The destruction of nests discourages infestations by dermestid
beetles and other insect scavengers which could move to other household items.
Carpenter Bees
These large, dark-colored bees are similar in size and appearance
to bumble bees. They can be distinguished from bumble bees by their hairless
abdomen. Carpenter bees make their nests in beams, rafters, telephone poles and
other wooden structures. Although extensive tunneling by carpenter bees can
cause some damage to timbers, control is rarely necessary.
If activity is unusually heavy, frequent painting of infested
areas and/or application of insecticides to tunnels under construction will kill
the adult bees and prevent further damage.
Digger Wasps
Digger wasps are beneficial. They appear in the morning and
fly-over turf in search of beetle grubs or the larvae of other insects. These
wasps generally do not sting unless handled or molested. If control is desired,
treat the lawn with a liquid or granular insecticide. Such treatments also will
reduce turf insect populations and, therefore, foraging by digger wasps.
If you need assistance with the control any removal of any of
these insects, contact a member of our trained, certified staff for professional
pest control. |
